The overnight train was full and uncomfortable, as these things go, but this time we scored an all-girl cabin as opposed to our old man one from Paris to Irun... and were also greeted slash oogled by the dozen or so teenage German boys drinking a few doors down. Once they realized we were the only young girls on the train they proceeded to walk back and forth, back and forth in front of our room until finally the boldest, shortest, least attractive one worked up the guts to ask me a question in German. My laughter and shrugging at the fact that A. they must have been 14 or 15 and B. I don't speak a lick of German aside from the word "Schadenfreude" which generally I sing...caused them to hastily retreat. Why is it that the only attention we have been getting is either from old fogeys or the greasies right out of the cradle? Either that or we go out and attempt to find locals but instead find men from completely different countries...in Vienna it was Turkish and Swiss, but more of that in a bit.
Our days in Vienna were fortunately beautiful ones filled with walking, museum-going, window-shopping and eating. We started off with the Natural History Museum right in the Museum District where my favorite part was, of course, the giant squid tentacle and the blue whale jawbone, but the 85 carat uncut diamond was pretty interesting as well. I decided I shall settle for no less than this for my engagement ring. Future husband, if you exist or ever read this, take note ;) Following a stroll past the Hapsburg Palace we stumbled upon a practice-run for something called LifeBall, an annual AIDS festival that, alas, we were not able to attend. We DID, however, get to watch a practice singing performance where the chick couldn't find her first note (guffaw) and gawked at the crazy hairdos and getups of those working the festival...apparently even if you buy a ticket you will be turned away from the event if you're not wearing the proper costume. Touchyy! Other museum/site visits consisted of Shunbrunn Palace, the summer home of the Hapsburgs where Napoleon stayed during his conquest, the Vienna Opera House where we snuck in during Intermission to get some photos, and The Belvedere Museum where I got to see my FAVORITE PAINTING IN THE WORLD (so far), Gustav Klimpt's "The Kiss." The Belvedere wins as our favorite museum so far and by far. The collection was impressive, located in an old, grandiose palace with immense gardens and seeing works by Monet, Manet, Mueller, Van Gogh, Klimpt, and many others is always a great experience for us geeky history nerds. Sometimes I wish I had glasses just so I could fit into the four-eyes persona and push my glasses up my nose as I carefully study a work of art.
We did discover one of our favorite beers of the trip here, called Stiegl which is actually brewed in Salzburg, but the food experience was varied.
First night: Met our friend Meggie (French Canadian we encountered in Barcelona) at an Italian place where we first had Stiegl; fig and gorgonzola pizza yummm. After deciding to NOT go into the largest club in Austria, PraterDome, at 10pm when we were stonecold sober and the clientele must be the Jersey Shore of Vienna...we made it to Dick Mack's Irish Pub where we met Turks who challenged us to Foosball. Little did they know my phenomenal skills, learned from years of sparring with my brothers, so free drinks were happily earned. THEN, on our way back to the hostel, after navigating the metro system, it happened. KEBAB PARADISE. I don't know if it was the bread or the alcohol or the delicious juicy meat or the spice but I have dreamed about this kebab many times since then.
Second night: Seriously should have stuck with the kebabs. Instead we thought, "Oh we MUST eat Viennese food tonight!" and naively decided to go out and order schnitzel (essentially country-fried veal) and what can only be described as the grossest meal ever. It was uniform in color, a nice yellowy-beige, and consisted of sauerkraut, 2 pieces of dry meat, gravy, and a large ball of lemony dough called a knudel or something. I downed my beer and tried to make it look like I ate a good portion, like little children do.
Third day: Meeting up with my Uncle Ernst and cousins Harry and Nick was something I had looked forward to for a while, as they had been meeting all their Austrian relatives and traveling for the last 2 weeks or so. ALSO, boy did they know what to order at lunch! Apparently the salads and soups are amazing, and they were no exception at this quaint lunch place where we ate asparagus soup, salad of greens, potatoes, carrots and delicious dressing and I chose calf liver for an entree. Yes, it tasted like liver, but WHEN IN VIENNA eh? Had to try it and glad I did. Perhaps one of my other favorite snacks that day was when we stumbled upon the Sacher Hotel where I had the original Sacher torte! Chocolate is literally the secret to Mathilde. Don't tell.
In all, Vienna was a beautiful city and we thoroughly enjoyed our time there...but that's before we got to experience Salzburg..........
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